Necrosciinae sp. "Padangbai"

(by Bruno Kneubuehler)

General Informations

• provenience:  small village, about 8 km outside of Padangbai (eastern Bali). Sometimes Padangbai is also called Padang Bay
• F1 CB culture in 2016 by Thierry Heitzmann (Philippines) and Bruno Kneubuehler (Switzerland)
• further taxonomical informations ➤ phasmida.speciesfile.org
• this is a pure culture, and serious breeders are asked to avoid mixing this culture with similar populations from a different provenience. When spreading this culture to other breeders, then always use the full name with provenience

Females

• gracile, slender, small species
• body length 6 - 6.5 cm
• WC females were green, CB females are mostly brown
• short hind wings
• very long cerci

Males

• slender and small
• body length 4 - 4.5 cm
• CB and WC males are green
• short hind wings

Nymphs

• freshly hatched nymphs about 10 mm
• dark brown body with yellowish-green legs
• on how to distinguish between male and female nymphs

Eggs

• 2 x 1.5 mm
• brown or grey-brown
• strongly structured surface
• surface matt

Food Plants

• bramble (Rubus spp.)
  well accepted by nymphs and adults

Breeding, Behaviour

• very easy to breed
• active mainly during the night
• they can behave very hectic when being touched, trying to escape running away
• eggs just drop to the ground
• about 15 - 20 eggs per female and week
• incubation (Cup-Incubation-method with medium damp vermiculite) about 5 - 8 weeks at 20 - 23 °C
• eggs can be covered by Vermiculite (about 3 mm high), which makes it easier for the nymphs to hatch without getting stuck in the eggs shell
• eggs of this species are not prone to get mouldy
• nymphs hatch during the night
• a humidity of about 70 % seems to be good enough for this species, but can also be higher
• males and females will be adult after 3 months (at 20 - 24°C)
• one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but allow the water to dry up before spraying again

Basics of phasmids breeding

• keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
• keep nymphs seperate from the adults, mainly to protect them during the crucial moulting phases
• choose the cage big enough. When in doubt, too big is (usually) better than too small
• a ventilator often supports good breeding results, as it seems to increase activity and feeding
• provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
• try to keep day time temperatures below 25°C
• a nocturnal fall of temperature is natural, and thus advantageous
• do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! The water should dry up before you spray again
• minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, opening up cages in the morning [often a moulting phase] ect.)