Orthonecroscia pulcherrima "Kubah"

(by Bruno Kneubuehler)

General Informations

• provenience: Kubah NP, Sarawak, Borneo
• ID by Joachim Bresseel (BE), Francis Seow-Choen (SG)
• F1 CB culture in 2016 by Bruno Kneubuehler (CH)
• further taxonomical informations ➤ Phasmida Species Files
• this is a pure culture, and all serious breeders are kindly requested to avoid mixing this culture with similar populations from a different provenience / location. When spreading this culture to other breeders, then always use the full name with provenience
• this culture has the number CLP 837  (Online Phasma Culture List)

Females

• medium-sized, long-legged, rather slender
• body length ≈ 10 - 11 cm
• females coloration is consistant across individuals
• coloration with yellow, green, blue and black

Males

• slender, long-legged
• body length ≈ 8 cm
• males coloration is consistant across individuals
• coloration is a fluorescent blue and black

Nymphs

• freshly hatched nymphs are green with a blue head, and black-blueish ringed legs
• on how to distinguish between male and female nymphs

Eggs

• ≈ 8 x 1 mm
• light brown
• suface looks furry

Food Plants

• bramble (Rubus spp.)
  well accepted by 2nd generation (F2) nymphs (even freshly hatched) and adults
• Salal (Gautheria shallon) with beech-coating
  this was well accepted by first generation (F1) nymphs, while older F1 nymphs and adults took well to Salal without coating
• hazelnut (Corylus avellana)
  well accepted by older nymphs and adults (not tested with freshly hatched nymphs)

Breeding, Behaviour

• easy to breed, but need a big cage
• active mainly during the night
• both adult males and females are very jumpy, usually they immediatly drop to the ground and / or run of fly away
• males can fly very well and for a long distance - so be careful with open windows
• females fly quite well too, but due to their weight they usually fly just for a shot distance
• the have a clear, citrus-smelling defensive spray. As it is the case with defensive spray of other phasmid species, this one could be irritating to the eyes too
• females stick their eggs into a substrate at the bottom of the cage
• aquarium filter wool on the cage floor is easily accepted by the females to stick their eggs into
• females lay their eggs in clutches, about 10 - 15 eggs per female every 2 -3 weeks
• incubation (Cup-Incubation-method, on medium damp vermiculite) about 4 - 5 months at 20 - 24 °C
• stick the eggs into the vermiculite, the egg lid (capitulum) facing upwards
• it is quite common that some phasmid nymphs will hatch weeks or even months after the first nymphs - from the very same batch of eggs
• eggs of this species are not prone to get mouldy
• nymphs hatch during the night
• a humidity of about 65 - 75 % rH seems to be good enough for nymphs and adults
• one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but allow the water to dry up before spraying again
• small nymphs can be kept in a Faunabox (or a similar cage), which shall not be too small
• provide a cage of about 40 x 40 x 60 (cm, L x B x H) for 3 adult couples
• males will be adult after 2.5 - 3 months (at 20 - 24°C), females after 3.5 months

Basics of phasmids breeding

• keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
• keep nymphs seperate from the adults, mainly to protect them during the crucial moulting phases
• choose the cage big enough. When in doubt, too big is (usually) better than too small
• a ventilator often supports good breeding results, as it seems to increase activity and feeding
• provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
• try to keep day time temperatures below 25°C
• a nocturnal fall of temperature is natural (down to around 20°C)
• do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! Allow the water to dry up before you spray again
• minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, opening up cages in the morning [often a moulting phase] ect.)