Phaenopharos sp. "Kirirom"

(by Bruno Kneubuehler)

General Informations

• provenience: Kirirom NP (Cambodia)
• taxonomic evaluation by Jérome Constant (Belgium)
• F1 CB culture by Bruno Kneubuehler (2016)
• further taxonomical informations ➤ phasmida.speciesfile.org
• this is a pure culture, and serious breeders are asked to avoid mixing this culture with similar populations from a different provenience. When spreading this culture to other breeders, then always use the full name with provenience

Females

• slender, medium-sized species
• body length 12 cm
• light brown
• few small warts dorsally on the prothorax
• a dark dot right in front of the midleg joint
• the membranous part of the hind wings is bright red

Males

• slender, long-legged
• body length 9 cm
• brown with green leggs
• yellow eyes
• a dark dot right in front of the midleg joint
• the membranous part of the hind wings is bright red

Nymphs

• freshly hatched nymphs are dark brown mottled, 19 mm long
• on how to distinguish between male and female nymphs

Eggs

• 4.5 x 3 mm
• dark, almost black
• suface slightly glossy

Food Plants

• bramble (Rubus spp.)
  well accepted by nymphs and adults

Breeding, Behaviour

• easy to breed
• active mainly during the night
• they feign death when touched
• eggs just drop to the ground
• about 10 - 15 eggs per female and week
• incubation (Cup-Incubation-method on medium damp vermiculite) about 7 months at 20 - 23 °C
• eggs can be covered by vermiculite (about 3 mm high), which makes it easier for the nymphs to hatch without getting stuck in the eggs shell
• eggs of this species are not prone to get mouldy
• nymphs hatch during the night
• a humidity of about 65 - 70 % seems to be good enough for nymphs and adults
• one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but allow the water to dry up before spraying again
• males will be adult after 3 months (at 20 - 24°C), females after 3.5 months

Basics of phasmids breeding

• keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
• keep nymphs seperate from the adults, mainly to protect them during the crucial moulting phases
• choose the cage big enough. When in doubt, too big is (usually) better than too small
• a ventilator often supports good breeding results, as it seems to increase activity and feeding
• provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
• try to keep day time temperatures below 25°C
• a nocturnal fall of temperature is natural, and thus advantageous
• do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! The water should dry up before you spray again
• minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, opening up cages in the morning [often a moulting phase] ect.)