1) General Informations
2) Hatching
3) Mould on phasmid eggs
4) HH - Incubation method
5) why using sand as an incubation substrate.....


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General Informations

·   sort out eggs regularely and incubate them seperatly

·   incubate as many eggs as you need for the next generation - not more. This way one
    will have an easy control about the number of hatching nymphs and avoid uncontrolled
    population explosions and destructive overpopluation

·   size of the boxes used for incubation must be adjusted to the size of the hatching
    nymphs. If these containers are they too small, then hatching nymphs will be crippled
    inevitably and this can be fatal (in the worst case)

·   short dry periods will not harm the embryos of most phasmid species. But prolonged dry
    periods can indeed lead to hatching problems or even cause death of the embryos

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Hatching

·   hatchlings of different phasmid species hatch at different times during the day

·   while nymphs of many (if not most) species will hatch during the night, some species also
    hatch during the day!

·   examples for species hatching in daylight are Achrioptera fallax (just after dawn),
    Achrioptera punctipes cliquennoisi (around noon time), Cranidium gibbosum (noon time)

·   this experience suggests that the embryos can somehow perceive the presence of
    daylight (either directly or indirectly by the increase of temperature) even through the
    shell of the eggs, providing them with the informations when to hatch ...

·   therefore it might be advantaegous to expose the eggs during incubation to a daily change
    of (soft) light and darkness

·   just after hatching, nymphs "grow" quite a bit. Make shure that you do NOT disturb
    nymphs during this very crucial period !

·   they have to inflate their bodies right after hatching. But if they feel disturbed, then quite
    frequently they will "forget" to inflate their bodies. This results into stocky-looking nymphs,
    like dwarf nymphs (as their exoskeleton dries up quickly)

·   such "dwarf" nymphs seem to have difficulties to grow up successfully, most even die soon
    enough. Only if they make it through their first moult, they will regain a normal body size

·   species with long-legged, big nymphs (like Pharnacia, Phasmotaenia) seem to be more
    prone to this "dwarf"-syndrom. While other species with small, stout nymphs (like
    Trachyaretaon, Pylaemenes) do not exhibit this problem frequently

·   examples of disturbances which might be dangerous for the hatching nymphs:

·   moving or shaking the incubation container and the shelf on which the container
    stands
·   too many nymphs hatching at the same time in a small container
·   loud music or noise

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Mould and phasmid eggs

·   it seems to me that the negative effects of mould on phasmid eggs are somewhat
    over-estimated. I've had eggs of several phasmid species (like Eucarcharus feruloides,
    Phasmotaenia spinosa, Hermarchus leytensis, Cranidium gibbosum and others) which were
    badly covered with mould during most of the incubation time. Yet healthy nymphs were
    hatching easilyand in good numbers

·   thus mould is not the ultimate death sentence for phasmid eggs

·   but this does not suggest to become careless about mould. Firstly different species may
    posses different resistibility. And secondly it might be better if the growing embryo is not
    exposed to any ill effect of mould growth

·   mould consums quite a bit of oxygen and some mould species can produce very potent
    bio-toxins, which (at least theoretically) can harm a phasmid embryo if the toxins can
    pentrate the eggs shell

·   if there is a lot of mould growth, just add a bigger amount of springtails to the incubation
    box and this will reduce mould growth at least to a certain degree

·   one may also use springtails or active coal to reduce mould growth

·   last but not least - for your own health and wellness it is advisable to reduce mould
    growth as far as possible. Spores of some mould species are very potent allergens, and
    toxins of some mould species are amongst the most potent cancer-causing substances
    known to date

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HH-Incubation method


·   it is a very simple, handy method, and moult growth is reduced

·   even eggs of species which stick their eggs into soil (like Mearnsiana, Trachyaretaonp,
    Obrimus, Haaniella) can be incubated this way successfully

·   material needed:

·   a clear, see-through plastic box with a tightly closing lid
·   some smaller plastic cups or boxes (about 2 cm lower than the plastic box !)
·   fine stockings
·   thoroughly washed aquarium sand
·   some kitchen paper
·   moss (from the forest)
·   put kitchen paper in the bigger box and make it really wet

·   cut a hole in the lid of the box. The hole in the lid serves as ventilation

·   make it just big enough to prevent condensation inside the box. Condensation water can
    be a death trap for freshly hatched nymphs, and it increases mould growth

·   cover the hole in the lid with a fine stocking, which will help freshly hatched nymphs to
    get a better grip when hanging below the lid

·   half fill the smaller plastic cup with sand - and put the eggs on top of the sand

·   place the sand-filled plastic cups with the eggs inside the bigger clear box - directly on
    the wet paper towel

·   for eggs of species from rather dry areas or areas with a dry season, to not moisten the
    sand. The humidity of the air will be enough to enshure a healthy developement of the
    eggs

·   for eggs of species from rather humid areas, use slightly damp sand - moisten the sand
    with just a little bit of water. Just as much as to make the sand a bit damp!

·   for eggs of species from arid areas - keep the eggs only at room moisture

·   spread some moss loosley over the eggs, this will help the nymphs on hatching a lot. Like
    this, almost none nymph will get stuck to the egg shell or be crippled

·   the small cup can be closed with a netting, if it contains eggs of a small species (see 3rd
    picture below, cup in the lower right corner). This might be helpful, when eggs of different
    species are incubated in the same box and the appearance of the hatching nymphs is not
    known

·   if the cup contains eggs of rather big or very big species, then leave the cup open. This
    will provide enough space for the big nymphs and only few will be crippled

·   store the incubation boxes in a place with a moderate daily change of light (day / night)

·   regularly moisten the paper towel in the bigger box, and if needed the sand in the small
    containers

 

 

 

 

 


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Why using sand as incubation substrate ...

·   during time I have tried out several methods of incubation, but incubation on sand has
    proven to be really great - simple, handy and effective

·   material used for this method is easily available

·   moistening of the incubation box is really simple

·   mould growth on sand, especially with springtails,  is much reduced (while mould grows
   well on paper, peat)

·   sand does not stick to the eggs as annoyingly as vermiculite

·   even if the sand accidentally dries up, then it is very easy to remoisten it (contrary to
    paper, peat and other similar substrates)

·   sand can be washed easily and being re-used over an over again

·   for incubation on moist sand, add spring tails (Collembola) to futher recuce mould growth

·   hatching ratio is as good as with other substrates

·   Attention - when using sand one has to be very careful that the eggs will not drown in
    excessive water. Sand does NOT absorb water ! To avoid this - make holes in the bottem
    of the cup which contains the sand and the eggs, and use it as described in the
    HH-incubation method above. Like this the eggs will never be endangered of drowning in
    excessive water