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· if possible, then keep only one species per cage. This allows to better survey the
developement of the culture and it is easier to avoid over population
· phasmids in overpopulated cages tend to be more stressed - which does not surprise
the caring breeder. And obviously the level of stress will influence the developement
negatively, if the stress level is too high
· other problems caused by overpopulation are:
· problems during moulting (ecdysis). This often leads to crippled specimens, with
missing legs or even badly deformed bodies. If these disabilities are grave, then
they may even cause death
· phasmids tend to chew on each other
· phasmids from badly overcroved cages tend to be weaker and smaller in size than
specimens which grew up in commodious cages
· therefore use your sensitivity for another living being to appraise whether your cages are
overcrowded or not. Sensitivity to the needs of other living being is in this hobby a more
than welcome virtue
· cages, incubations containers and containers for the food plants should be cleansed
regularely, without becoming too meticulous about it. A basic cleanliness is a must when
breeding phasmids (not even pigs like to live in their own stool, only two-legged pigs make
them live that way)
· temperatures in my breeding cages range between 20 - 25 °C, both in summer and winter.
Generally one should avoided that temperatures rise above 30°C for a prolonged time. This
might easily happen when a cage stands right in the sun (window). If temperatures will
drop lower than 18°C in winter, some additional heating should be used for most phasmid
species
· Nevertheless it is my experience that some phasmids (certainly Achrioptera, Phyllium)
need quite a lot of light
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· for small nymphs and adult specimens of small and rather inactive species I use almost
exclusively socalled Faunaboxes - in different dimensions - according to the size of the
specimens. To offer phasmids in these cages a safer climbing surface, plastic fly screen
is glued to the sides of the Faunabox (with hot glue)
· for big nymphs and adult specimens of medium sized and big species I use selfmade cages,
made from wooden crates. One can get them in different sizes from stores (Do-it-yourself
stores). With some endeavour and inventiveness one can remodel such crates to very
suitable cages for phasmids. Such cages are cheap and durable - and it seems that
phasmids breed very well in such cages
· an advantage of such cages is that they have several wooden sides (including the
ceiling), and these make of a much safer climbing and resting place for phasmids
(compared to full glass or plastic cages). This is especially advantagous during moulting
· if you are using glass or plastic cages then it is advisable to glue plastic fly screen to the
sides of the cage. This can easily be done with hot glue
· make sure that the wooden crates are not treated with pestizides
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