Asprenas sp. "microwings, Koghi"
(by Bruno Kneubuehler)


General Informations

  • formery this cultures was known as Asprenas sp. "microwings, Koghi"
  • ID by Frank Hennemann (DE)
  • provenience: Mt. Koghi (New Caledonia)
  • collected in February 2014 by a local insect enthusiast
  • different phasmid taxonomists suggest that this might be Asprenas effeminatus Carl, 1913, but a definite ID is not yet available
  • F1 CB culture by Bruno Kneubuehler (2014)
  • further taxonomical informations ➤
  • this is a pure culture, and serious breeders will avoid mixing it with cultures of a different provenience


  • medium-sized, long-legged, spiny species
  • body length 10 cm
  • green with brown patches and white dots
  • black cheeks
  • several long spines on the upper body
  • long legs
  • short hindwings
  • inner side of hindwings red
  • long secondary ovipositor


  • slender, spiny
  • body length 6 - 7 cm
  • several long spines on the upper body
  • black cheeks
  • short antennae
  • verye short hindwings
  • inner side of hindwings red


  • freshly hatched nymphs are dark brown (legs, head, pro- and mesothorax) and red (metathorax, abdomen)
  • coloration of these nymphs are distinctively different from nymphs of other Phyllium species
  • on how to distinguish between male and female nymphs


  • 5 x 2.5 mm
  • black
  • shiny, smooth surface
  • white micropylar plate

Food Plants

  • bramble (Rubus spp.)
    very well accepted by nymphs and adults
  • hazelnut (Corylus avellana)
    very well accepted by nymphs and adults
  • Salal (Gaultheria shallon)
    very well accepted by nymphs and adults
  • beech (Fagus sylvatica)
    very well accepted by nymphs and adults

Breeding, Behaviour

  • active mainly during the night
  • they often drop to the ground when being touched, and freeze up again after a just few steps
  • eggs stuck in clutches into a substrate on the cage floor
  • a suitable substrate for egg-laying is dry sand, offered in a box (sand about 5 cm high). The box must be placed in one of the corners of the cage, otherwise they won't find it
  • about 1 clutch per female every 2 weeks
  • about 10 - 15 eggs per clutch
  • incubation (HH-method on slightly damp vermiculite) about 3.5 months at 20 - 23 °C
  • nymphs hatch during the night
  • a humidity of about 75 - 80 % seems to be good enough
  • one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but the water should dry up again
  • easy to breed in my experience

Basics of phasmids breeding

  • keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
  • keep nymphs seperate from the adults, mainly to protect them during the crucial moulting phases
  • choose the cage big enough, when in doubt it is (usually) better to choose a cage too big than too small
  • a ventilator often supports good breeding results, , as it seems to increase appetite and vitality
  • provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
  • try to keep day temperatures below 25°C
  • a nocturnal fall of temperature is healty for the phasmids
  • do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! The water should dry up before you spray again
  • minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, opening up cages in the morning [often a moulting phase] ect.)

Useful informations


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