Centrophasma hadrillum spinocephalum "Bako"
(by Bruno Kneubuehler)

 

General Informations

  • this culture has been distributed as Centrophasma hadrillum "Bako" at first
  • provenience: Bako NP  (Sarawak, Borneo, Malaysia)
  • collected in 2014 by JungChun Chiang (Taiwan)
  • F1 CB culture by JungChun Chiang (Taiwan)
  • F1 CB culture in Europe by Bruno Kneubuehler (2015)
  • further taxonomical informations ➤ phasmida.speciesfile.org
  • this is a pure culture, and serious breeders are asked to avoid mixing this culture with similar populations from a different provenience

Females

  • very sturdy and very spiny
  • body length 9 cm
  • females are very variably colored, in different shades of brown and green
  • short hindwings

Males

  • stury and spiny
  • body length 8 cm
  • fully developed wings
     

Nymphs

  • freshly hatched nymphs brown with green legs
  • about 20 mm
  • on how to distinguish between male and female nymphs

Eggs

  • 7 x 2.5 mm
  • brown

Food Plants

  • bramble (Rubus spp.)
    well accepted by nymphs and adults

Breeding, Behaviour

  • active mainly during the night
  • they feign death when touched
  • eggs are stuck into a suitable substrate
  • dry sand is accepted as an egg-laying substrate
  • about 5 - 7 eggs per female and week
  • incubation (HH-method on slightly damp vermiculite) about 4 - 5 months at 20 - 23 °C
  • males will be adult after 4 months (at 20 - 24°C), females after 5 months
  • a humidity of about 75 - 80 % seems to be good enough for this species
  • especially adults should be kept more humid
  • one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but allow the water to dry up before spraying again
  • easy to breed

Basics of phasmids breeding

  • keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
  • keep nymphs seperate from the adults, mainly to protect them during the crucial moulting phases
  • choose the cage big enough, when in doubt it is (usually) better to choose a cage too big than too small
  • a ventilator often supports good breeding results, as it seems to increase activity and feeding
  • provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
  • try to keep day time temperatures below 25°C
  • a nocturnal fall of temperature is natural, and thus advantageous
  • do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! The water should dry up before you spray again
  • minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, opening up cages in the morning [often a moulting phase] ect.)

Useful informations

detailed infos on how to breed phasmids
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/199

infos on newly cultured phasmid species
https://www.facebook.com/phasmatodea

Online Culture List
www.ulft-ict.nl/phasma/kweeklijst/

PSG list
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/psg

how to recognize the difference between male / female nymphs
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/tips-and-tricks

eggs for breeding
http://www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/222

 

direct link to this category

direct link to category: hadrillum spinocephalum