Libethra sp. "Otún Quimbaya"
(by Bruno Kneubuehler)

General Informations

  • provenience: Santuario de Fauna y Flora Otún Quimbaya, Pereira, Colombia
  • collected in August 2015 by David Holland (GB)
  • taxonomic evaluation by Oskar Conle (GE)
  • F1 CB culture in 2015 by Bruno Kneubuehler (CH)
  • further taxonomical informations ➤ phasmida.speciesfile.org
  • this is a pure culture, and serious breeders are asked to avoid mixing this culture with similar populations from a different provenience. When spreading this culture to other breeders, then always use the full name with provenience

Females

  • stocky, small species
  • body length 6.5 cm
  • greenish-brown

Males

  • stocky
  • body length 6.5 cm
  • green-brown

Nymphs

  • freshly hatched nymphs are green with white antennae tips
  • about 16 mm
  • on how to distinguish between male and female nymphs

Eggs

  • 3.5 x 2 mm
  • brown with dark marking
  • suface is rough

Food Plants

  • bramble (Rubus spp.)
    well accepted by nymphs and adults
  • Salal (Gaultheria shallon)
    moderately well accepted by nymphs and adults
  • beech (Fagus sylvatica)
    moderately well accepted by nymphs and adults

Breeding, Behaviour

  • easy to breed
  • active mainly during the night
  • they feign death when touched or try to crawl away
  • eggs just drop to the ground
  • about 10 eggs per female and week
  • incubation (Cup-Incubation-method on medium damp vermiculite) about 4 months at 20 - 23 °C
  • eggs can be covered by vermiculite (about 5 mm high), which makes it easier for the nymphs to hatch without getting stuck in the eggs shell
  • eggs of this species are not prone to get mouldy
  • nymphs hatch during the night
  • a humidity of about 65 - 70 % seems to be good enough for nymphs and adults
  • one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but allow the water to dry up before spraying again
  • males will be adult after 3 months (at 20 - 24°C), females after 3.5 months

Basics of phasmids breeding

  • keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
  • keep nymphs seperate from the adults, mainly to protect them during the crucial moulting phases
  • choose the cage big enough. When in doubt, too big is (usually) better than too small
  • a ventilator often supports good breeding results, as it seems to increase activity and feeding
  • provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
  • try to keep day time temperatures below 25°C
  • a nocturnal fall of temperature is natural, and thus advantageous
  • do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! The water should dry up before you spray again
  • minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, opening up cages in the morning [often a moulting phase] ect.)

Useful informations

detailed infos on how to breed phasmids
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/199

infos on newly cultured phasmid species
https://www.facebook.com/phasmatodea

Online Culture List
www.ulft-ict.nl/phasma/kweeklijst/

PSG list
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/psg

how to recognize the difference between male / female nymphs
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/tips-and-tricks

eggs for breeding
http://www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/222

 

direct link to this category

direct link to category: sp. (Colombia, Santuario de Otun)