Lopaphus sp. "Cuc Phuong"
(by Bruno Kneubuehler) 


FamilyDiapheromeridaeKirby, 1904
SubfamilyNecrosciinaeBrunner v. Wattenwyl, 1893
TribusNecrosciiniBrunner v. Wattenwyl, 1893
GenusLopaphusWestwood, 1859
SpeciesLopaphus sp. "Cuc Phuong"(noch nicht identifiziert)



General Notes

  • 2011 – taxonomical aspects of this species are being examined by
             Joachim Bresseel (Belgium), and he will also describe this species
  • 2012 - first successful culture by Bruno Kneubuehler
  • 2012 - this species has been distributed as Lopaphus sp. "Cuc Phuong"



  • Joachim Bresseel (Belgium) and Jérôme Constant (RBINS) found this species in July 2011 in Cuc Phuong, Vietnam (No. 66, "Necrosciinae sp. Blue Lopaphus ?, Vietnam, 2011)



  • very nice, medium sized phasmids
  • about 9.5 – 10.5 cm long
  • there are two very different color morphs amongst the females
  • first morph has a blue meso- and metathorax, brown legs, head, prothorax, abdomen (dorally), black areas and a green abdomen (ventrally)
  • second morph has a olive-green meso- metathorax, abdomen; reddish-brown head, prothorax, legs
  • both color morphs have numerous light or white dots on the thorax and abdomen (dorsally)
  • antennae are longer than the forelegs
  • no wings (apterous)



  • very beautiful, thin phasmids
  • coloration is consistent amongst males
  • about 7.5 – 8.5 cm long
  • strongly blue meso- and metathorax
  • thorax and abdomen (dorsally) with numerous, fine light or white dots
  • legs and abdomen are reddish-brown
  • antennae much longer than the forelegs
  • no wings (apterous)



  • about 14 mm (L1)
  • green (L1)
  • as soon as the nymphs start to feed, they become darker green in color
  • by L3, most nymphs are brown-green with many white dots
  • rather hairy legs and antennae
  • antennae already longer than forelegs
  • by L3 it is quite easy to draw a distinction between ♀♂ (by the naked eye)



  • small
  • about 2 x 1.5 mm
  • elongate-oval
  • brown
  • matt
  • surface is net-like structured
  • capitulum is distinctly raised from the egg lid (operculum)
  • micropylar plate is well visible


Food Plants

  • bramble (Rubus sp.)
    is very well accepted by freshly hatched nymphs, older nymphs and adults
  • bramble (Rubus sp.) - fresh leaves in spring
    is very well accepted by adults (not tested on nymphs)
  • firethorn (Pyracantha sp.)
    is very well accepted by freshly hatched nymphs (not tested with older nymphs and adults)
  • hazelnut (Corylus avellana)
    is very well accepted by adults (not tested with nymphs)
  • beech (Fagus sylvatica)
    is well accepted by adults and older nymphs (not tested with young nymphs)
  • Hypericum
    preferred over bramble    (info: Andreas Rolke)



  • nymphs as well as adults behave VERY frantically when tthey feel threatened. Often many will fall to the ground and wriggle about frantically when one is changing the food plants
  • thus it is best to avoid touching them – as far as possible
  • rather active also during the day – thus this species is also great for displays
  • matings are frequent – day and night
  • males do not stay with the same female for a prolonged time



  • incubation time (HH-incubation on slightly damp sand at 20 - 23 °C) is about 5 months  (F1)
  • spread some dried (!) moss over the eggs - this will make it much easier for the nymphs to hatch unscathed and it also reduces mould growth to some extend
  • hatching ratio in F1 was very high (> 50%)
  • males will be adult after about 3.5 months (at 20 – 23°C), females after about 4 months
  • females start laying eggs after about 2 – 3 weeks
  • eggs are flinged away with a swing of the abodmen
  • about 35 – 45 eggs per female and week
  • adults can live for several months


Breeding Notes

  • my general notes on how to breed phasmids are a integral part of this care sheet ...
  • it is very easy to breed this species
  • keep the nymphs in a cage with good ventilation, but take care that the humidity does not drop too low
  • a constantly wet paper towel on the floor of the cage helps raising humidity
  • a humidity level of about 65 % rH seems to be sufficient (no problem if higher)
  • nymphs can be kept in a Faunabox (or similar cages)
  • move nymphs to a bigger cage as they grow bigger
  • a cage of at least 30 x 30 x 30 cm should be provided for 3 - 4 couples of this species (or considerably larger if the cage also contains other species !)
  • generally I advise to keep different phasmid species seperately (unfortunately, overcrowed cages are still very common ...)
  • I have never sprayed nymphs or adults (or their cage) with water
  • make shure that nymphs, which are about to undergo their adult moult, do not find places in the cage which would not offer them enough space beneath to moult successfully


  • Phasmida Species Files  (www.phasmida.orthoptera.org)


direct link to this category

direct link to category: sp. (Vietnam, Cuc Phuong)