Neoclides buescheri "Bako"
(by Bruno Kneubuehler)

 

General Informations

  • decribed by Francis Seow-Choen (SG) in 2016, named in honor after Thies Büscher (DE)
  • formerly also called Neoclides sp. "Bako"
  • provenience: Bako NP (Sarawak, Borneo)
  • collected (30. 11. '15) by Albert Kang (Philippines)
  • F1 CB culture by Thierry Heitzmann (Philippines)
  • further taxonomical informations ➤ phasmida.speciesfile.org
  • this is a pure culture, and serious breeders will avoid mixing it with cultures of a different provenience

Females

  • medium- sized, stubby phasmids with an "twig-look"
  • body length 9 - 10 cm
  • dark brown, some females have white patches
  • short forelegs (which are surprisingly similar to the forelegs of Melophasma antillarum)
  • antennae longer than forelegs
  • long, well-developed wings
  • whole body is strongly granulated
  • few spines on the head
  • forelegs with fringes
  • subgential plate shorter than the abdominal ending

Males

  • slender compared to the females, still they also look knobby
  • body length 6.5 cm
  • antennae longer than forelegs
  • brown, few males with white patches
  • forewings have a knobby distension
     

Nymphs

  • freshly hatched nymphs are dark brown with few white markings, and a brown abdomen
  • about 17 mm
  • antennae have a white tip
  • 2 spines on the head
  • on how to distinguish between male and female nymphs

Eggs

  • 4 x 2.5 mm
  • contrasty colored
  • brown
  • surface densly covered with short bristles

Food Plants

  • Salal (Gaultheria shallon)
    freshly hatched F3+ nymphs easily took to Salal, but apple slices have to be offered too. It can take up to 1 week before they start to feed. More on the apple-slice-trick
  • an apple juice coating on Salal works might also help to get them feeding on Salal. But let the apple juice dry up thoroughly
  • Quercus ilex  (maybe other Quercus spp. too)
    well accepted by nymphs and adults  (info Frank Hennemann, Germany)
  • Salal (Gaultheria shallon) with oak juice coating (for F1 and F2)
    was well accepted by freshly hatched nymphs. More on the Coating Method
  • it can take up to 7 days before the nymphs they start to feed
  • even before their first moult, nymphs then accepted Salal without Coating
  • young Mango leaves (Mangifera indica)
    moderately well accepted by nymphs and adults (Info by Thierry Heitzmann)
     

Breeding, Behaviour

  • active mainly during the night
  • they usually feign death when touched
  • nymphs as well as adults have an astounding camouflage. They like to rest out on twigs during the day, mimicking a small brocken twig. In this position, the abdomen usually point against gravity
  • eggs are glued - to twigs, other things in the cage and even on the floor
  • about 1 clutch of eggs per female in two weeks
  • about 15 - 30 eggs per clutch
  • GET method for a natural incubation of glued eggs
  • incubation (HH-method on slightly damp vermiculite) about 5 - 8 weeks at 20 - 23 °C
  • eggs which are no more glued to any substrate should be covered with try fir needles. In order to avoid hatching problems
  • nymphs hatch at daylight (early morning hours)
  • a humidity of about 75 % seems to be good enough for this species
  • one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but the water should dry up again
  • put twigs in the cage, adults need thicker twigs
  • apart from the food plants, this species is easy to breed in my experience

Basics of phasmids breeding

  • keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
  • keep nymphs seperate from the adults, mainly to protect them during the crucial moulting phases
  • choose the cage big enough, when in doubt it is (usually) better to choose a cage too big than too small
  • a ventilator often supports good breeding results, as it seems to increase appetite and vitality
  • provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
  • try to keep day temperatures below 25°C
  • a nocturnal fall of temperature is healty for the phasmids
  • do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! The water should dry up before you spray again
  • do not use chlorinated water
  • minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, opening up cages in the morning [often a moulting phase] ect.)

Useful informations

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