Orthomeria sp. "Kubah"
(by Bruno Kneubuehler)

 

General Informations

  • provenience: Kubah NP (Sarawak, Borneo)
  • collected in July 2015 by Albert Kang (MY), Thierry Heitzmann (PH) collected the eggs
  • they have been found between 500 - 800 masl
  • taxonomic evaluation by Marco Gottardo (IT)
  • Orthomeria sp. "Kubah" differ in some morphological features significantly different from O. superba. Thus there is some reasonable doubt that Orthomeria sp. "Kubah" is conspecific with O. superba. And this does not really come as a surprise, as the type specimens of O. superba are from Mt. Kinabalu - which is over 1000 km away from Kubah NP
  • F1 CB culture in 2015 by Bruno Kneubuehler (CH)
  • further taxonomical informations ➤ Phasmida Species Files
  • this is a pure culture, and serious breeders are requested to avoid mixing this culture with similar populations from a different provenience. When spreading this culture to other breeders, then always use the full name with provenience
  • this culture has the number CLP 789  (Online Phasma Culture List)

Females

  • medium-sized phasmids
  • body length 6.5 - 7 cm
  • female's coloration does not vary
  • main coloration a olive-green
  • hind wings green-yellow with black pattern

Males

  • medium-sized, quite colorful phasmids
  • body length 5.5 - 6 cm
  • male's coloration does also not vary
  • main coloration is a dark reddish-brown
  • colorful hind wings - green, yellow, blue with black pattern

Nymphs

  • freshly hatched nymphs are almost black with white areas
  • about 11 mm
  • on how to distinguish between male and female nymphs

Eggs

  • 3 x 2 mm
  • brown

Food Plants

  • stinging nettle (Urtica spp.)
    well accepted by nymphs and adults
  • their natural food plant seems to be Dillenia suffruticosa
  • a similar species from Mulu has been reported to feed on a Ficus species, not tested with this culture

Breeding, Behaviour

  • easy to breed
  • main activity during the night, especially nymphs and adult female
  • adult males are quite often active during the day too
  • they can behave very frantic when touched, and they are quick
  • males can fly quite well, while female can also fly though not that well
  • a whitish defensive spray has been observed. This has a pungent smell, and it burns in the eyes even when it just evaporates from a surface near to the eyes
  • eggs just drop to the ground
  • about 10 - 15 eggs per female and week
  • incubation (Cup-Incubation-method, on medium damp vermiculite) about 2 months at 20 - 24 °C
  • eggs can be covered by vermiculite (about 5 mm high), which makes it easier for the nymphs to hatch without getting stuck in the eggs shell
  • eggs of this species are not prone to get mouldy
  • nymphs hatch during daytime (around noon)
  • it is quite common in phasmids that nymphs hatch weeks after the first nymphs - even from the same batch of eggs
  • a humidity of about 65 - 75 % rH seems to be good enough for nymphs and adults
  • one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but allow the water to dry up before spraying again
  • small nymphs can be kept in a Faunabox (or a similar cage), which shall not be too small
  • provide a cage of about 30 x 30 x 30 (cm, L x B x H) for 3 - 4 adult couples
  • males will be adult after 2 - 2.5 months (at 20 - 24°C), females after 2.5 - 3 months
  • incubation time can be extended with the LTD-Method (up to at least 2 months), as their food plants are not easily available during european winter time

Basics of phasmids breeding

  • keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
  • keep nymphs seperate from the adults, mainly to protect them during the crucial moulting phases
  • choose the cage big enough. When in doubt, too big is (usually) better than too small
  • a ventilator often supports good breeding results, as it seems to increase activity and feeding
  • provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
  • try to keep day time temperatures below 25°C
  • a nocturnal fall of temperature is natural, and thus advantageous
  • do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! Allow the water to dry up before you spray again
  • minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, opening up cages in the morning [often a moulting phase] ect.)

Useful informations

detailed infos on how to breed phasmids
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/199

infos on newly cultured phasmid species
https://www.facebook.com/phasmatodea

how to recognize the difference between male / female nymphs
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/tips-and-tricks

eggs for breeding
http://www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/222

 

direct link to this category

direct link to category: sp. (Sarawak, Kubah)