Orthonecroscia pulcherrima "Kubah"
(by Bruno Kneubuehler)

 

General Informations

  • provenience: Kubah NP, Sarawak, Borneo
  • collected in 2015 by Albert Kang
  • ID by Joachim Bresseel (BE), Francis Seow-Choen (SG)
  • F1 CB culture in 2016 by Bruno Kneubuehler (CH)
  • further taxonomical informations ➤ Phasmida Species Files
  • this is a pure culture, and all serious breeders are kindly requested to avoid mixing this culture with similar populations from a different provenience / location. When spreading this culture to other breeders, then always use the full name with provenience
  • this culture has the number CLP 837  (Online Phasma Culture List)

Females

  • medium-sized, long-legged, rather slender
  • body length ≈ 10 - 11 cm
  • females coloration is consistant across individuals
  • coloration with yellow, green, blue and black

Males

  • slender, long-legged
  • body length ≈ 8 cm
  • males coloration is consistant across individuals
  • coloration is a fluorescent blue and black

Nymphs

  • freshly hatched nymphs are green with a blue head, and black-blueish ringed legs
  • on how to distinguish between male and female nymphs

Eggs

  • ≈ 8 x 1 mm
  • light brown
  • suface looks furry

Food Plants

  • bramble (Rubus spp.)
    well accepted by 2nd generation (F2) nymphs (even freshly hatched) and adults
  • Salal (Gautheria shallon) with beech-coating
    this was well accepted by first generation (F1) nymphs, while older F1 nymphs and adults took well to Salal without coating
  • hazelnut (Corylus avellana)
    well accepted by older nymphs and adults (not tested with freshly hatched nymphs)

Breeding, Behaviour

  • easy to breed, but need a big cage
  • active mainly during the night
  • both adult males and females are very jumpy, usually they immediatly drop to the ground and / or run of fly away
  • males can fly very well and for a long distance - so be careful with open windows
  • females fly quite well too, but due to their weight they usually fly just for a shot distance
  • the have a clear, citrus-smelling defensive spray. As it is the case with defensive spray of other phasmid species, this one could be irritating to the eyes too
  • females stick their eggs into a substrate at the bottom of the cage
  • aquarium filter wool on the cage floor is easily accepted by the females to stick their eggs into
  • females lay their eggs in clutches, about 10 - 15 eggs per female every 2 -3 weeks
  • incubation (Cup-Incubation-method, on medium damp vermiculite) about 4 - 5 months at 20 - 24 °C
  • stick the eggs into the vermiculite, the egg lid (capitulum) facing upwards
  • it is quite common that some phasmid nymphs will hatch weeks or even months after the first nymphs - from the very same batch of eggs
  • eggs of this species are not prone to get mouldy
  • nymphs hatch during the night
  • a humidity of about 65 - 75 % rH seems to be good enough for nymphs and adults
  • one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but allow the water to dry up before spraying again
  • small nymphs can be kept in a Faunabox (or a similar cage), which shall not be too small
  • provide a cage of about 40 x 40 x 60 (cm, L x B x H) for 3 adult couples
  • males will be adult after 2.5 - 3 months (at 20 - 24°C), females after 3.5 months

Basics of phasmids breeding

  • keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
  • keep nymphs seperate from the adults, mainly to protect them during the crucial moulting phases
  • choose the cage big enough. When in doubt, too big is (usually) better than too small
  • a ventilator often supports good breeding results, as it seems to increase activity and feeding
  • provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
  • try to keep day time temperatures below 25°C
  • a nocturnal fall of temperature is natural (down to around 20°C)
  • do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! Allow the water to dry up before you spray again
  • minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, opening up cages in the morning [often a moulting phase] ect.)

Useful informations

detailed infos on how to breed phasmids
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/199

infos on newly cultured phasmid species
https://www.facebook.com/phasmatodea

how to recognize the difference between male / female nymphs
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/tips-and-tricks

eggs for breeding
http://www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/222

 

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