Trachyaretaon sp. "Imugan Falls"
(by Bruno Kneubuehler)


General Informations

  • provenience: Imugan Falls (Nueva Vizcaya, Cagayan Valley, Luzon, Philippines) at an altitude of 900 - 950 masl
  • collected in June 2015 by a local naturalist
  • this seems to be a parthenogenetic species / population, as on two independant occations only females have been found in the very same location. And only females hatched from eggs collected from wild-caught females
  • F1 CB culture in 2016 by Bruno Kneubuehler (CH)
  • further taxonomical informations ➤ Phasmida Species Files
  • this is a pure culture, and serious breeders are requested to avoid mixing this culture with similar populations from a different provenience. When spreading this culture to other breeders, then always use the full name with provenience
  • this culture has the number CLP 827   (Online Phasma Culture List)


  • small, sturdy, contrasty-colored phasmids
  • body length ≈ 7 - 8 cm
  • wild-caught females were mainly mossy-green
  • CB females were all contrasty reddish-brown with black areas
  • coloration does not vary much


  • no males


  • freshly hatched nymphs are mainly green, with some dark and white areas
  • about 14 mm


  • 4.5 x 2.5 mm
  • greyish-brown
  • matt

Food Plants

  • bramble (Rubus spp.)
    well very accepted by nymphs and adults
  • ivy (Hedera helix)
    well accepted     (info by Patrick Köhldorfer)

Breeding, Behaviour

  • very easy to breed
  • active mainly during the night
  • they feign death when touched
  • a defensive spray has not been observed
  • eggs are stuck into a substrate
  • a sand-filled (about 3 cm) box in a corner of the cage will be accepted
  • eggs are layed in clutches
  • about 10 - 15 eggs per clutch
  • 1 clutch per female every 2 - 3 weeks
  • about 10 - 15 eggs per female and week
  • incubation (Cup-Incubation-method, on medium damp vermiculite) about 4 months at 20 - 24 °C
  • eggs can be covered with vermiculite (about 5 mm high), which makes it easier for the nymphs to hatch without getting stuck in the eggs shell
  • nymphs hatch during the night
  • it is quite common that some phasmid nymphs hatch weeks after the first nymphs - from the same batch of eggs
  • a humidity of about 65 - 75 % rH seems to be good enough for nymphs and adults
  • one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but allow the water to dry up before spraying again
  • small nymphs can be kept in a Faunabox (or a similar cage), which shall not be too small
  • provide a cage of about 30 x 30 x 30 (cm, L x B x H) for 4 adult females
  • females will be adult after about 7 months (at 20 - 24°C)

Basics of phasmids breeding

  • keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
  • keep nymphs seperate from the adults, mainly to protect them during the crucial moulting phases
  • choose the cage big enough. When in doubt, too big is (usually) better than too small
  • a ventilator often supports good breeding results, as it seems to increase activity and feeding
  • provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
  • try to keep day time temperatures below 25°C
  • a nocturnal fall of temperature is natural (down to around 20°C)
  • do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! Allow the water to dry up before you spray again
  • minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, opening up cages in the morning [often a moulting phase] ect.)

Useful informations

detailed infos on how to breed phasmids

infos on newly cultured phasmid species

how to recognize the difference between male / female nymphs

eggs for breeding


direct link to this category

direct link to category: sp. (Imugan Falls)