Calvisia (Calvisia) conicipennis "Mulu"

Calvisia conicipennis "Mulu"   CLP 790
(by Bruno Kneubuehler)

General Informations

• provenience: Mulu NP (Sarawak, Borneo)
• ID by Francis Seow-Choen (SG)
• F1 CB culture in 2015 by Bruno Kneubuehler (CH)
• further taxonomical informations ➤ Phasmida Species Files
• this is a pure culture, and serious breeders are asked to avoid mixing this culture with similar populations from a different provenience. When spreading this culture to other breeders, then always use the full name with provenience
• this culture has the number CLP 790    (Online Phasma Culture List)

Females

• medium-sized, bark-colored phasmids
• body length 7 cm
• contrasty brown coloration
• dark green dots on the wings
• well developed wings

Males

• slender, small phasmids
• body length 6 cm
• contrasty brown coloration
• well developed wings

Nymphs

• freshly hatched nymphs are yellow and hairy
• about 12 mm
• on how to distinguish between male and female nymphs

Eggs

• 3 x 1.5 mm
• brown

Food Plants

• hypericum (Hypericum)
  very well accepted by nymphs and adults

Breeding, Behaviour

• very easy to breed
• active mainly during the night
• they ususally feign death when touched
• but adult males and females can fly very well
• a defensive spray has not been observed
• eggs are glued in rows to different objects (leaves, twigs, containers, cage)
• if eggs have to be removed, then spray them generously with water. And after about 10 minutes they can be removed carefully
• about clutch every 2 - 3 weeks, with 10 - 15 eggs per clutch
• GET method for a natural incubation of glued eggs
• incubation about 4 - 5 weeks at 20 - 24 °C
• eggs of this species are not prone to get mouldy
• nymphs hatch during daytime (around noon)
• a humidity of about 65 - 75 % seems to be good enough for nymphs and adults
• one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but allow the water to dry up before spraying again
• males will be adult after 2 months (at 20 - 24°C), females after 3 months
• incubation time can be extended with the LTD-Method, as their food plants are not easily available during european winter time

Basics of phasmids breeding

• keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
• keep nymphs seperate from the adults, mainly to protect them during the crucial moulting phases
• choose the cage big enough. When in doubt, too big is (usually) better than too small
• a ventilator often supports good breeding results, as it seems to increase activity and feeding
• provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
• try to keep day time temperatures below 25°C
• a nocturnal fall of temperature is natural, and thus advantageous
• do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! The water should dry up before you spray again
• minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, opening up cages in the morning [often a moulting phase] ect.)

Useful informations

➤detailed infos on how to breed phasmids
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/199

➤
infos on newly cultured phasmid species
https://www.facebook.com/phasmatodea

➤
how to recognize the difference between male / female nymphs
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/tips-and-tricks

➤
eggs for breeding
http://www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/222